San Juan Chamula
San Juan Chamula
Political Climate
San Cristobal, Mexico

This is page two for San Cristobal.
San Juan Chamula
is a small town outside  San Cristobal. The Indians residing there are amongst the most traditional of the Mexicans.

Don't take photos
This is the place where cameras are not welcome, especially near and never inside the church. We managed to take a quick couple of photos however I was threatened by a young boy (speaking Spanish) not to take photos.

The Indians & Coca cola
We had been told earlier by a man in Palenque about the people of San Juan Chamula. They have a very free lifestyle in that they partake in the consumption of mushrooms and alcohol as part of their spiritual enlightenment.

As with all Indians, the people mainly live by subsistence ; they are able to produce virtually everything that they need for daily living; i.e. food from crops and animals, clothing and shelter etc. Therefore, in such a situation when a commodity exists that they cannot produce themselves it becomes extremely valuable.

Church of San Juan Chamula, San Cristobal, Mexico

A forbidden photo of Andrew
and the Catholic/Mayan/Pagan, Capitalist Church of San Juan Chamula

San Juan Chamuila, San Cristobal, Mexico

In these places, unfortunately, one thing which the people can not manufacture themselves is coca cola. This is their most valuable commodity as they believe that it has a spiritual power. They believe that  when they burp they purify themselves by expelling evil spirits. Prior to the discovery of fizzy drinks, locals had to drink litres of water to achieve the same cathartic effect.

This seems hard to believe but this dependence upon coke appears obvious when in the town.  Coke signs appear everywhere.

The Indians and their religion
This strange blend of traditional Catholicism, the former pagan Indian religion and capitalism is also evident in the church. It is necessary to pay to gain entry into the Church. Once inside you are asked for more money to be able to stay inside the church.

When we were in the village, the locals were conducting some type of religious festival in which they let off these very large home made fireworks. These fireworks gave a huge bang which could be heard through out the town.

They consisted of long cylindrical gun powder filled tubes with long sticks for balance protruding from their ends. They were being lit by a hot piece of coal from a fire. Rich bribed a young girl to tell him where we could get some of the firework's from. This was the start of a long an dangerous Trek past-time. (see the Mexican Firework's page).

Begging children
One problem which is worse in this part of Chiapas than any other part of Mexico that we visited was begging children. These children had the task down to an art form and were very persistent. The children became extremely annoying, would not leave and almost became nasty when refused . One child in particular came begged of us five times.

The difference in San Cristobal was that the children appeared to be happy, well dressed and healthy and hence therefore did not appear to need any money. One thing that upset us was the way in which children are exploited and made to beg for their families financial support. On Christmas eve for example we were chased by groups of children in the Zocalo (San Cristobal)  who were begging for money after midnight. Where are their parents?

San Cristobal, Mexico
San Juan Chamula
Political Climate

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Copyright ©  1998-1999Andrew Wild and Sharon Gillett